General Advice

 

QUALITY FUEL

Along with regular use and correct servicing, the use of high quality fuel is essential in maintaining the inside of your engine and fuel system. The price of high quality fuel can seem costly but in the long run this will give you better fuel economy, improved performance and will help minimise the risk of expensive repairs due to the build up of harmful deposits inside major components such as; turbochargers, injectors, exhaust gas recirculation valves, lambda (oxygen) sensors, catalytic converters, throttle bodies and breather systems.  In short, high quality fuel helps to ensure these and the main engine components are kept in the best possible condition.

DRIVING CYCLES

Please ensure you put your vehicle through varying driving cycles on a regular basis, e.g. hard* and light driving conditions through town and on motorways. This purges the system and ensures sufficient temperatures are reached to help prevent harmful carbon build up inside important engine components.

*hard driving does not mean breaking the speed limit or driving dangerously!

AIR CONDITIONING

It is advisable to use your air conditioning system throughout the year (even in winter; to demist your windows). Not using the system through the winter can cause component seizures and system seals to dry out, which in turn releases harmful refrigerant into the atmosphere, stops the system from operating and ultimately costs you money to re-fill or repair the system come the summer time.

COOLING SYSTEM

If you ever experience overheating problems with your vehicle, please stop driving it immediately as continuing may result in major engine damage. After any work on your cooling system has been completed the coolant level may drop slightly as the system settles itself. For this reason it is a good idea if you check your coolant level the day after any repairs. The level should be checked when the engine is cold and if necessary topped up with a little tap water. (See level checks)

Regular Checks

As bulbs can fail and levels can drop between services we recommend you check basic items on a regular basis and especially before a long journey. This helps to give you piece of mind and in some cases helps you to spot potential problems before they leave you sat on the side of the road awaiting the recovery services.

If you are unsure of what to do please give us a call and we will be happy to offer you advice, or even pop into our workshop (map) and we will be happy to give you a free demonstration.


Here is a list of items that ideally should be checked on a regular basis in between services

ALL EXTERIOR LIGHTS

(For this you will need the ignition turned on and an assistant to apply the brakes.)

Please ensure that when replacing blown bulbs you take care to use the correct bulb (fitment, rating, etc) and insert the bulb correctly, as it is easy to create further problems especially with headlamp bulbs.

Some bulbs are not accessible without removing the lamp unit from the vehicle or removal of wheels and wheel arch trims. In these cases a labour charge will be incurred.

If you require advice or a free bulb fitting service (for the majority of bulb replacements) please call us.

FLUID LEVEL CHECKS

1. Engine oil – the engine oil is checked using the oil dipstick. This will be clearly coloured or marked with either the wording ‘OIL’ or a picture of an oil can and will have markings along the stick to indicate the min and max oil levels, If you are unsure please consult your vehicle manual. Please ensure your vehicle is on level ground and the engine is turned off. If the engine has been running please allow 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle at the bottom of the engine. If topping up is required, use small quantities at a time and keep checking the level in between top ups. Please ensure not to overfill your engine with oil, as this can cause a considerable amount of damage. If for any reason you do, please call us for advice.
   
   
2. Engine coolant – The majority of coolant reservoirs are made of clear plastic and it is easy to see the level without removing the lid. These reservoirs are sometimes mounted to the inner wings, either side of the engine or directly mounted to the coolant radiator, which will be found between the engine and the front of the vehicle. The best time to check the coolant level is when the engine is cold. At this time the level should be on the MAX mark. If checking the coolant visually through the side of the reservoir when the engine is hot, the level may be slightly lower as the pressure in the system will force the coolant downward. This is okay as long as the coolant is not below the MINIMUM marking.
   
   Please note: never remove the coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot as this can result in severe burns, as the system is not only hot but under pressure!



3. Screen Wash – The screen wash reservoir on most modern vehicles is hidden away in one of the inner wheel arches, but the filler neck and cap will be found under the bonnet to the left or right of the engine. The washers should be topped up with just tap water but when completely refilling a small quantity of neat screen wash solution should also be added. During winter time it is best to use double the amount of screen wash solution to prevent freezing. Should your system freeze, some warm (not boiling) water added to the reservoir should remedy the situation. Over use of the screen wash solution all year round can cause the fluid to congeal and block the washer system. If this occurs the washer bottle will require removal for flushing. Some older vehicles have a separate washer system for the rear washers and the reservoir can be found in the boot area. If you are not sure please consult your vehicle handbook or call us for advice.



4. Power Steering – The power steering fluid will not normally require topping up, unless of course there is a leak in the system, or in some modern systems the fluid depletes due to lots of low speed manoeuvring. The reservoir should be clearly labelled and will be situated under the bonnet. This will normally be indicated by a picture of a steering wheel or the wording ‘power steering fluid’ on the cap or reservoir itself. There will be a small dipstick inside the cap or some sort of marker with the min and max marking clearly displayed. The fluid should be on the max mark when hot and slightly below when cold. Always check the fluid when the engine is turned off. Please refer to your vehicle handbook for the correct specification of power steering fluid or call us for advice.



5. Brake Fluid – The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake linings wear but this will not normally cause a problem between services. If the brake fluid drops below the safe working level the red brake warning lamp will illuminate on the instrument panel. If this occurs then top up the brake fluid (please refer to your handbook for the correct specification of fluid) to the maximum level in the reservoir (normally found in the engine bay between the engine and cabin) and call us immediately for advice.

TYRES

The minimum legal requirement for tyre wear on passenger and light goods vehicles is 1.6mm in a continuous band through the centre 3/4 of the tread width and around the whole circumference of the tyre.

When checking tyres, the entire breadth and circumference of the tread should be checked to ensure they have worn evenly, i.e. not bias to one side and with no ‘flat spots’. Bias wear can occur if the steering (tracking) is out of alignment or other steering/suspension faults are present. Flat spots only really occur after emergency stops/skidding and do not tend to affect modern vehicles due to systems such as A.B.S. and stability control.

Other defects to look out for are splitting of the rubber (where the inner cord is then exposed), bulges or lumps in the rubber (which indicate reinforcement damage) and perishing (due to the age of the tyre) – all these defects can fail an M.o.T. test and increase the risk of a tyre blow out.

If you are unsure of how to check your tyres or are concerned you may have some of the above defects, please call for further advice. We do not supply and fit tyres ourselves but can arrange for this service to be carried out at short notice or whilst your vehicle is in for repair, service or M.o.T. test. We can supply a wide range of branded and budget tyres at very competitive prices.

Always ensure to keep your tyre pressures adjusted correctly, as under and over inflation can cause premature tyre wear!

Common Faults

BRAKES

Common brake related faults to look out for are:

1. Brake squeal (squealing noise when brakes applied) – mostly caused by worn brake linings, sticking brake components or brake dust build up.


2. Brake judder (juddering sensation felt through the steering wheel or brake pedal) – mostly caused by warped brake discs/drums or other seized brake components.


3. Long pedal/high handbrake travel – mostly due to the braking system requiring adjustment.


4. Brake fade (sinking of the brake pedal during braking) – mostly caused by moisture contaminated brake fluid or internal/external fluid leak in the braking system.


5. Spongy brakes – possibly due to the brake fluid being contaminated with moisture. This is due to the fluid being hydroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, through the walls of the brake components.


6. Grinding noises – If you experience a loud grinding noise that does not disappear after several brake applications, this normally indicates the brake linings have worn out and are in need of replacement.
   
   If the grinding noise is less severe and only seems to occur during the first few brake applications (mostly during wet weather), this normally indicates a slight build of corrosion on the braking surfaces and is not cause for alarm.

SUSPENSION

It is important that any knocks, bangs, squeaks or strange handling sensations are reported and dealt with as soon as they occur, as if left can result in costly repairs and sometimes accidents.

STEERING

Common problems to look out for on your steering system are:

1. Steering pull - this is where, when in motion, the vehicle seems to steer itself to the left or right. This should not be confused with a slight wandering which occurs due to the camber of the road.
   
   If you experience this, first check your tyre pressures and general tyre condition (see tyre checks). If these checks are ok your steering system may require adjustment (tracking) or repairs, so please call us for advice.


2. Steering wheel wobble – This normally occurs as a result of the road wheels being out of balance but can have some more serious causes such as, wheel bearing failure (normally accompanied by a droning noise whilst in motion) or steering/suspension ball joint failure.  If you are in doubt or wheel balancing does not cure the problem, please call us for advice.

CLUTCH / FLYWHEEL

If Clutch slip (the engine revs increasing but not the road speed) or clutch judder (juddering through the vehicle or clutch pedal, mainly when pulling away from stationary) occurs, it is most likely that your clutch components have worn out or are defective, and gearbox removal will be required to enable the clutch components to be replaced. This will normally consist of pressure plate, friction lining, release bearing and gearbox oil replacement but sometimes this repair can also include the replacement of the dual mass flywheel (if fitted - see below for details).

Dual mass flywheels (DMF) have been installed to the majority of modern vehicles (especially diesels). These units have been designed to improve driver comfort by allowing smoother gear selection, reducing noise and damping vibration. Because the single mass of the original solid flywheel design has effectively been split into two, this creates a problem of wear and tear due to moving parts. As a result, it is often a requirement to replace the DMF when the clutch is replaced. Occasionally the DMF is required before the clutch wears but this is mainly dependant on driving style and conditions. If replacement is required you will often experience juddering through the clutch pedal whilst the engine is running and throughout the whole vehicle when starting and switching off the engine.  Please call for further advice if you think you may have a problem.

Please ensure you do not drive with your left foot resting on the clutch pedal, as this will cause overheating and premature failure of the clutch components.

Purchasing Used Vehicles

1. Compile a list of requirements including purchase price (do not forget insurance, tax, fuel and servicing costs).



2. Create a list of potential vehicles from your requirements.
   
   
3. Road test and research vehicles on your shortlist (feel free to call us for advice on individual vehicles).
   
   
4. Decide on one particular vehicle and stick to it.
   
   
5. When you find your potential new car we strongly recommend that you take a professional with you for a viewing or arrange for the vehicle to be brought to our workshops for a pre-sales inspection. This will include a thorough inspection of the mechanical & electrical components and the bodywork for previous damage repairs not correctly carried out, in areas not easily accessible. If a seller refuses such an inspection, be suspicious that the vehicle is not in a sound condition.
   
   (Please bear in mind that our inspection would be far less expensive than similar services offered by some motoring organisations)


6. If it wasn’t convenient to get a pre-sales inspection carried out, we would advise that a post-sales inspection is arrange immediately to ensure the vehicle is as advertised and to give you enough time for recourse should any problems arise.

Note: When purchasing a vehicle, particularly from a motor trader, you are protected under the Sales of Goods Act 1978 , please read below for a summary of this act before making your purchase and understand how it protects you.

Information regarding the Sales of Goods Act 1978:

What is a contract?
It is a legally binding agreement between 2 parties with the exchange of money or something of value for goods. Lots of contracts can be verbal and very few actually need to be in writing. Verbal contracts are binding but less easy to prove.

The law
The law gives you the following rights under this contract.
The goods should be:

1. Of satisfactory quality
This means of a standard that a reasonable person would consider to be satisfactory – generally free from fault or defect. They should also be of a reasonable appearance and finish; safe and durable.
2. Fit for purpose
This means as well as being fit for all common purposes for which they are generally sold, goods should be fit for any specific or particular purpose made known at the time of sale.
3. As described
This means goods should correspond with any description applied to them – this could be verbally, on a sign, or packaging, or an advert.

It is important to remember these rights exist automatically, between you and the trader. The trader should accept liability for any problems under the contract.

Don’t be fobbed off by a trader who tells you to take it up with the manufacturer. Only when you buy goods directly from the manufacturer is your contract with them and the same rights as above will apply.

For further information regarding your consumer rights please visit the Trading Standards website.